W-A-Y Wonderful World of Wool

Caring for Your Perennial Favorite Fabric: Wool

 

There are a lot of things to like about wool; it is flame resistant, it travels well, it keeps you cool and comfortable and warm and dry (as the season dictates) and is very versatile and easy to wear!

 While it has all of these things going for it, it does take a bit of care to keep it tip-top shape.  Here are some hints and tips from The Woolmark Co. for one of your favorite fabrics:

 

·        Empty pockets after each wearing to help prevent them from bulging and sagging

·        Brush the garment (preferably with a natural hair brush – directionally from top to bottom) to help remove surface soil

·        Lay garment flat on bed or hang outside of your closet for 1-2 hours to help dissipate any odors it may have absorbed before returning it to your closet

·        Hang and space woven garments in your closet so wrinkles may continue to relax.  Knit wool garments should be folded as they will stretch if hung

·        Dry-clean sparingly.  Woolmark suggests a single dry-cleaning at the end of a season to remove body oils

·        When traveling, loosely roll or fold garments with tissue paper – major wrinkling is unlikely, but a few minutes with a steam iron (or a steamy bathroom) should take care of unwanted folds

 

With proper care, you may enjoy your favorite garments for many years to come!

Why Donald Trump's Suits Look Cheap...

Here's why Donald Trump's suits look cheap even though they cost thousands of dollars

 

  • Nov. 4, 2016, 12:48 PM 

You already knew that Donald Trump likes expensive things. But the 2016 GOP presidential nominee is probably the best example in recent history of the old adage "money can't buy taste."

Take, for example, his taste in suits. No, we're not talking about the sorry excuse for formal wear he sells under the Donald J. Trump Collection name.

We're talking about the ones he actually wears. They're mostly made by Brioni, a campaign spokesperson told the New York Times.

Brioni, an Italian label known for its suiting, obviously makes fantastic suits. They will set you back from $6,000 to $17,000, depending on fabric choice and whether you want to go ready-to-wear or made-to-measure. These are suits that you can feel confident and powerful in, which are very likely two traits Trump would like to possess.

Unfortunately, you'd never know the suits are such a fine make by the way he wears them. You don't think of Trump as a sartorial icon, even though he spends thousands on these suits. Another adage that applies here: it's not what you wear, but how you wear it.

It comes down to fit, as ever. His suits are cut too big, with absurdly wide pant legs and sleeves too long. It makes the whole ensemble look cheap, just as his fire engine red tie does. Speaking of ties, his are frequently much too long and often hang between his legs.

But it's not all about fit. He doesn't take great care of his suits, either. He often wears them wrinkled, an effect likely increased by the lighter fabrics he prefers to wear, as bespoke suit maker Edward Sexton told Jezebel.

"For him I'd go with good solid cloth that won't fall into creases," Sexton said.

Donald Trump's pants are a disaster. Getty/Scott Olson

You should wear a suit, and not let it wear you. Trump is fastidious about the wrong things when it comes to his appearance — perfect tie and collar, sticking to his uniform, his elaborate hair — and relaxed about the wrong things, like wrinkles. It seems that he doesn't actually enjoy wearing the clothes he wears, and doesn't take pride in his appearance.

Now, we know that businessmen and politicians aren't exactly supposed to drive fashion trends. But if you compare Trump's tailoring with another politician — outgoing President Obama, for example — the difference is apparent. Obama favors trim tailoring and matte fabrics, always has his suits pressed, and generally looks presidential.

Why should you care about any of this? Because like it or not, you can tell a lot about someone by the way they dress and how much effort they put into it. For Trump, it's not a stretch to say that he isn't detail-oriented, based solely on how he presents himself.

Originally published by Business Insider.

Unstoppable Style

Sartorial Style by the Numbers; an Orderly Perspective

  1. The Suit – a classically updated suit is the most powerful wardrobe piece you can own.  It is never out of place and always in style whether two or three button models with center or side vents.

  2. The Dress Shirt – the second most important and powerful piece in your wardrobe.  With white being “no-brainer” formal, choose shades of blue and then other colors and stripes for a range of crisp appearances.  Cotton is king when it comes to feel and drape, and Bespoke is the best way to go.

  3. The Sport Coat (pattern) or Blazer (solid) – luxurious wools and silks, depending on season.  Almost as powerful as your suit, the jacket is your passport to personal expression and style interpretation.  Most can be paired with at least three trousers; light, medium and dark.  Business casual at its best.

  4. Trousers – from the dressiest of wools tothe most casual of cottons, trousers play a dual role by either standing alone or being paired with your sport coat or blazer.  The unlimited array of colors, patterns, and solids make them the “chameleon of the closet” in versatility!

  5. Shoes and Belts – From dressy suits to casual trousers, the shoe accentuates the whole package.  Match your belt and shoes. The more formal the outfit, the more formal the shoe.

  6. Topcoats and Raincoats – Chesterfields, Topcoats and Raincoats – these, by design, shield your Bespoke suit from the elements; topcoats for cooler to winter weather provide both warmth and protection while the raincoat (or all-weather coat) with a removable lining will keep you dry the rest of the time.

  7. The Vest – a near perfect piece that can be matched to your suit or contrasted colorfully with your sport coat and trousers.  However you wish to add a level of distinction and versatility to your outfit, taking a vested interest in color and texture will elevate your sense of style!

Confidence, Professionalism & Success Never Go Out of Style

A distinction can be made between fashion and style.  Fashion is copying a look and keeping up with the trends of the season.  Style, however, is not caring about a trend, but subtly expressing your individuality through clothing that is both complementary and appropriate to your age, body and lifestyle.

A market research study was conducted with an all-female class at the Fashion Institute of Technology, and the women were asked to answer a few questions about men’s wear.  “You’re at a club or bar and you see a guy dressed in a suit and tie.  You think he’s probably…”  The top responses were: 

  • Well-grounded, motivated, goal-oriented and very into appearance
  • Wealthy and potentially an arrogant jerk.
  • Fashion conscious
  • From out of town
  • Going out after work
  • Smart with a good job and decent salary
  • A successful businessman
  • Probably in the wrong club 

With an interest in presenting a more polished image that inspires confidence, businesses are continuing to realize that a more refined dress code leads to better productivity.  In my opinion, there are several good reasons why men should wear suits (or sport coats and slacks). 

First, men don’t generally carry handbags in this country, but they do have cell phones, glasses, wallets and keys that can bulk up trouser pockets.  Suit coats typically offer a plethora of pockets allowing men to more evenly distribute the necessities of today’s business day.

Second, more than half of American men are overweight.  A suit or sport coat helps accentuate the positive while camouflaging problem areas. 

Third, “dress” is easy, “casual” can be challenging.  Most guys know which ties match each suit in their closets, but what distinguishes “business casual” from “sloppy”? 

Fourth, casual slacks don’t “work”.  Try sitting in the office or car for a while.  Then stand up.  Cotton slacks have a tendency to wrinkle in a rather unique manner.  While there is a time and place for cottons, the business day is not one of them.

 Finally, it is impossible to dress “up” if you have misjudged the appropriate attire for an occasion.  It is, however, a simple matter to dress “down”.

 Whether right or wrong, first impressions are usually based on appearance.  If your goal is to project a “well-grounded, motivated and goal-oriented” image, let me share with you some guidelines for gentlemen’s professional attire. 

  • Your suit should be stylish and well tailored.  Subtle stripes and patterns in a model that enhances your physique are best.
  • You can never go wrong with a crisp white shirt, but muted patterns as well as stripes offer an air of confidence (and an infusion of color).
  • For a more sincere approach, steer clear of bright colors and loud patterns in your ties.
  • A pocket square is a nice touch; linen square or silk puff.
  • No jewelry, other than a wedding band, if appropriate.
  • Keep your dress watch slim and understated and wear the chunky chronograph on the weekends.
  • Simple, elegant leather-soled lace up shoes in black or brown complete today’s professional look. 

While these may appear to be simple guidelines, some gentlemen find coordinating the essentials, presenting the image they wish to project and ensuring the clothing fits properly may be beyond their scope of expertise.  This is where a professional clothier can help.

Climbing the proverbial "Ladder of Success" can be difficult. Make sure your clothes say you belong.  When you choose quality over quantity, you choose to belong.  When you choose to invest in yourself and enhance your personal and professional image, you choose to belong.  When you choose to put your best foot forward in every situation, you choose to belong.  When you dress well, you show respect for those around you, and yourself. 

Look your best.  Do your best.  Be your best - Everyday!

Dress 25% Better than Everyone Else

Being well-dressed still matters!  A client's impression of a company is partly formed by the appearance of its leaders and employees.  it is important to maintain a balance between formal and casual and may depend on the client's perception of "corporate style".  In every situation, the correct professional image

  1. Enhances personal confidence.
  2. Enhances perception of credibility.
  3. Improves social communication.
  4. Creates a favorable impression.

At all levels, tailored clothing should be of quality fabrics, pressed and properly fit for comfort and appearance.

On a Tailored level, the lines of a classically updated suit make it a business wear necessity representing authority and commanding respect.  Suits are dark; navy, charcoal, grey.  Seek to create a dark to light contrast with a light colored cotton shirt and contrasting silk tie.  Suit fabrics should be pure worsted wool, Super 120's and beyond in plain weaves, subtle patterns and stripes, while shirt collars should be straight or spread.

Softly Tailored incorporates a blazer (solid) or sport coat (pattern) and slacks creating an image of less formal, but no less dependable and capable.  Jackets may be classic styles as well as "softer" coats offering less structure, while dress slacks should be solid or small neat checks, and pressed.  Shirts at this level have collars and range from button-down to knit in a broad color spectrum of solids, stripes and subtle patterns.  though they tend to increase the perception of authority, ties are optional.

Casual Tailored entails a blending of neat and pressed tailored and untailored elements.  An outwear jacket may be worn over a knit shirt and corduroy slacks while a blazer may be worn with a v-neck sweater over a dressy T-shirt and microfiber blend slacks.  Shirts at this level may or may not have collars and run the color spectrum.  Trousers tend to be darker.

Knowing your audience (client base) is key, and clothing that fits well is of the essence.  Seek out a professional clothier who is willing to help you augment your knowledge and enhance your personal style.  After all, you should be your unique self - because everyone else is taken!

Only the Nose Knows for Sure

Ever know someone who could walk down a hallway and his/her cologne would precede their entrance?  Well, they're probably not wearing the right cologne and/or they probably didn't spend enough time making the right selection.  You see, we're all different, with different body chemistry which reacts differently to a myriad of things; jewelry, food, temperature and (in this case) fragrance, just to name a few.

All fragrances are made of three basic ingredients; fragrance oils, alcohol and deionized water.  The higher the concentration of fragrance oil used, the longer the fragrance will last on your skin.  However, a higher concentration does not necessarily mean an overpowering scent, merely one that lasts longer.

The correct way to test any fragrance is on your skin.  A scent strip or a whiff from a bottle cannot adequately duplicate its uniqueness on the wearer.  As the warmth of your skin allows the alcohol and water to evaporate, the essential oils interact with your body chemistry until everything blends together to achieve the final scent.

A final thought: when should others begin to smell your fragrance?  Without being either offensive (as in the example above) or nearly non-existent, your fragrance should be delightfully noticed within about eighteen inches, or about the "personal space" boundary that is typically acceptable in public.

Happy shopping!

Piriformis Pain? (Pain in the Ass?)

You might not think of too much cash as a source of pain, but a bulging wallet can trigger Piriformis Syndrome. Piriformis Syndrome is a condition in which the Piriformis muscles (located in the buttock region) spasms and causes buttock pain.  The Piriformis muscle can also irritate the nearby sciatic nerve and cause pain, numbness and tingling along the back of the leg and into the foot. 

This condition can affect men who carry their wallet in the back pocket of their trousers.  It puts pressure on the Piriformis muscle and can aggravate the sciatic nerve over time.  Here are a couple of ways to avoid this problem; 1) carry your existing wallet in a front trouser or jacket pocket, 2) clean out your wallet and determine what you really need on a regular basis, then change pockets, 3) consider a money clip for cash and a card case for "essential plastic" - and keep them in separate pockets.

For the record, we are able to help you with the money clips and card cases, but I would suggest visiting your chiropractor for everything else.  If you don't have a chiropractor you trust, I'm happy to make an introduction for you.

What's Your Strong Suit?

Business clothing has seen some major swings in focus, from get-ahead-dressy to dot-com-casual, but the man's suit has successfully weathered these changes and remains a powerful source of strength. How do you posture yourself in today's world? Do you blend in or stand out in a crowd of professionals? A well-tailored suit...

Shows respect for your customer. Let your clothing send the message, "I value your time enough to dress up." Stands out. In a challenging market, looking your best helps ensure that you're taken more seriously. Improves your self image. When you look great, you feel great, and act accordingly.

Is never underdressed. Wearing a suit eliminates the possibilities of looking more casual than clients or associates in a business setting. Reduces morning stress. No complicated decisions as to "coats and trousers". Put on your suit, a great looking shirt and pull a favorite tie.

When you're wearing a crisp, tailored suit you know who you are...and so do those around you! Let us enhance your most precious business asset, your image, through a collection of tailored clothing that is second to none.