Ready-to-Wear, Made-to-Measure & Bespoke (Custom-Made) - Briefly Explained

One of the things many people confuse is the meaning of the terms Ready-to-Wear, Made-to-Measure and Bespoke (Custom-Made).  Here is a succinct explanation of the distinctions of each:

Ready-to-Wear (Off-the-Rack)

RTW is a garment that you can buy in a shop.  It is hanging on the rack and can be bought as-is.  It can be worn right away, theoretically.  If you do this, you should always try it on immediately to see if any minor alterations are needed, or if it has something that can be tough (and expensive) to alter, such as shoulders.

Pros

What you see is what you get

No waiting

Cons

Alterations may, or may not, make it fit better

Usually not available in unique fabrics

Made from a standard pattern

Made-to-Measure

Unfortunately, this term has been used to describe almost anything where any type of measurement is needed.  Here’s the low-down:

Made-to-Measure starts with a basic pattern. A person’s measurements are taken and the pattern is adapted to the measurements prior to production.  Even though it is a modified version of a standard pattern, it can work well for many men. There is also the customization options of lapels, fabric, lining, buttons, etc.

Pros

Less expensive than Bespoke (Custom-Made)

Improved fit over Ready-to-Wear

Cons

Quality varies as there are many different providers

Price varies as much as $300-$3000

Bespoke (Custom-Made)

Full disclosure: I use both terms here because they are used synonymously here in the United States, and refer to the same thing.

Bespoke is derived from the word “bespeak”, or to speak for something.  It is a very British term and describes the customization process where one individual can decide exactly what they want.

One of the biggest differences is that the pattern is created from scratch (by hand and on paper), involves more handwork, and there is no “list” of options.  Within the limits of physics (measurements, proportions, etc), you may choose any detail, form or shape you wish.  Your personal clothier will be there to guide you for the best fit and appearance.  A pattern is cut by an individual and about 50 hours of handwork is involved in the garment’s creation, as well as fittings.  (Side note: Custom-Made CAN be achieved via laser cut and with less handwork, or cut by hand and involve more handwork.)

Pros

Consistent fit (which often improves over time)

Unlimited customization

Cons

Often more expensive

Takes more time

Conclusion

What is the “right” decision for you? I believe it comes down to several things; body shape, past challenges, what it is that YOU want in your new garment(s), fabric choices, availability, personal preference, and investment.  My suggestion? Explore your options. Work with a professional. Ultimately, it’s YOUR decision.